Saint-Véran

Saint-Véran: A Hidden Gem on the Wine List

Saint-Véran is often a familiar choice on the wine lists of upscale restaurants. But why is that? And is it justified? Located deep in the southern Mâconnais region, about 100 kilometers north of Lyon, Saint-Véran is a village that received its own Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in 1971. This area surrounds the medieval castle of Chasselas and unfairly sits in the shadow of better-known wine regions like Pouilly-Fuissé. Despite its recognizable name, it remains idyllically hidden, far off the beaten path. As a result, Saint-Véran wines are affordable yet high in quality.

A small drawback: much of the production has been handled by the local wine cooperative, which has often produced unremarkable, crowd-pleasing wines. However, these contracts are gradually expiring, and winemakers are rediscovering the potential of the terroir, which today offers an extension of Pouilly-Fuissé's minerality with its own juicy, distinctive character. This has led to a new wave of exciting Chardonnays proudly bearing the Saint-Véran name on their labels. Domaine de la Chapelle (Pouilly) and Clos Sauvage (Leynes) are current examples of this trend.

Saint-Véran produces only white wines from the Chardonnay grape. There are two main types:

1. Oak-aged wines: Full-bodied, rounded, juicy Chardonnays with rich, toasty, and slightly buttery flavors.
2. Non-oak-aged wines: Often matured in stainless steel tanks. Lighter wines that, thanks to the sandstone soils and slightly warmer climate, remain soft and rounded. Here, the focus is on the terroir and fruitiness – a pure expression without the seductive butteriness in the finish.

With a golden-green hue and a bouquet of white fruits like peach, these wines exude refinement and elegance. The taste is fruity, dry, with notes of toasted almonds and a balanced, fresh finish. They are best enjoyed young (within 8 years), though they develop wonderful aromas of acacia flowers and honey as they age.

The semi-continental climate of Saint-Véran, influenced by the Atlantic, ensures a varied growing year: a wet spring, warm summer, mild autumn, and cold winter. The soils range from granite in the south to limestone and marl in the north, contributing to the diversity and unique character of the wines.

With an annual production of about 40,000 hectoliters, the vineyards are spread across villages such as Chânes, Chasselas, Davayé, Leynes, Prissé, and Saint-Véran itself. Each plot contributes to the distinctive identity of Saint-Véran wines. In Burgundy, "Climats" are specific vineyards or parts of vineyards, each with unique characteristics. It won’t be long before Premier Cru status is awarded here as well. Take advantage before paying for the extra "1er Cru" label, as these vineyards have long delivered above-average quality.

Saint-Véran wines are versatile food companions. Serve them chilled (11-13°C) and open the bottle about an hour before enjoying to let the aromas fully develop. They pair beautifully with white meats, shellfish, fish, and (goat) cheese.

In summary, Saint-Véran offers an exceptional wine experience without the high prices of its more famous neighbors. With its delicate balance of tradition and finesse, this village is an irresistible destination for lovers of Burgundy Chardonnay.

As land is reclaimed from the cooperative, exceptional wines are being made once again. It’s a region to watch right now as quality makes greater strides than prices – the perfect wine for savvy Burgundy drinkers. Currently, Domaine de la Chapelle is one of our favorite wineries from southern Burgundy and a must-visit if you’re in the area. If their wines happen to be unavailable, you can enjoy them during a visit to the Solutré Rock, perhaps at the restaurant La Courtille or the most comprehensive wine shop in the area, L’Atrium.